Saturday, 16 May 2009

Les Plages de Beg Leguer, near Lannion

After another few days of travelling and exploring, we are well east on the north coast now. We have had lots of sunshine but rather chilly and since Thursday night, very windy.
Good to read your update on your family's exploits, Carolyn! Glad the AGM went well too. Thanks for keeping tabs on us Chris and Anne!
On Wednesday we moved on and had our picnic lunch at Lilia, right on the point, looking out to L'ile Vierge - the tallest lighthouse in France (270') - nearly twice as high as the one we climbed. It was very eerie, flat calm and grey sky, but left quite an impression. Soon after lunch it poured down and we drove through it to our next geocache hunt - at Meneham. The sun came out and we were awestruck by the size of the boulders strewn all over the place around there - not just on the beach, but in fields, by houses, as garden features. An ancient house still stands between 2 of them and John clambered over the top of one to find a date that had the numbers to find the cache(!) The house was built as part of the defence of the coast in 17th centure by order of Louis XIV! While looking for the pile of rocks for the treasure, we came across a little village that had been recently restored for use by local craftspeople - the thatching and tiling is an art in itself. On to Chapelle Pol and its menir and calvaire and then to Camping Baie de Kernic near Plouescat. Another shower, but never mind - put the chicken in the oven and went for a swim in the heated, covered pool. Shame the jacuzzi wasn't bubbling and we couldn't find the switch, but it was lovely and warm!
Thursday was dry as we drove past some more beautiful beaches to Mogueriec. This was another DNF as it started to rain as we needed to clamber over rocks, so kept to the coast path just for the walk. A very profitable one too - maybe we shouldn't be admitting to this as we do usually adhere to 'thou shalt not steal' very seriously - but we were just walking past all these fields of growing veg - onions, artichokes (particularly prolific in this area) - and we came to one where the cauliflowers had just been harvested and there was one just under our feet that had been sliced in half ... and left there to rot. Some of it went into our stir-fry last night! Much better than the alternative, don't you agree? We made much better use of God's gift.
On then, to Dossen - still raining. But as seems to be happening quite often, at lunch-time the sky cleared and the sun came out. Our pizzas in Les Dunes were good (but salty) as we watched the weather changing. We came here to see the island of Sieck, but we were rewarded with more than just seeing it - we walked across the huge sandy bay, onto the island and all around its coast - stunningly beautiful views. The island is privately owned and has 1 house and 1 chateau, but the path is open to the public at low tide. Didn't go far from there for the night's halt, as there is an Aire at Laber, just before Roscoff. The lovely weather stayed with us, so we packed our picnic tea and cycled the 2 miles out to the Pointe de Perharidy, although we had to walk the last bit out to the rocks. This time we were looking out to Ile-de-Batz. We thought we were alone, till the pounding of feet signalled a jogger who not only ran to the rocks, he ran up them! He was a bit of a poser but was not so slick coming down! Then two fishermen and their dog arrived. So all quite entertaining really.
Friday, we explored the coast around Roscoff -very attractive port. Did some shopping - very pleased to find the Haynes' favourite Pepper Sauces with the help of a very pleasant shop assistant who didn't know where to find it either!
Any other requests for shopping please let us know asap as not many shopping days left before Dieppe.
The highlight of the day was a visit to Carantec and out to the point where a road goes out to sea to the Ile Callot. (On the map as Route submersible) The road is only above water for a very short time at low tide and although we waited quite a while, it didn't clear in time for us to walk across. It was quite funny watching while we ate our lunch, the french drivers drive down there and then have to reverse all the way back up again!
On to Morlaix - a fabulous place, much better than expected, built in the cleft of a valley, dominated by an enormous railway viaduct. The buildings are very old, tall and narrow. Several are 'skylight' houses, mostly converted now, but they have preserved Maison de la Reine Anne as an example. We went in this 16th century house and marvelled at its 36' high spiral staircase, the central pillar of which was one piece of oak from mast timber. The ground floor is one open space right up 3 storeys to skylight windows. There are bedrooms either side of the central staircase on each floor. The wooden carvings at every level, including one of an acrobat on a barrel with his tongue out (depicting jollity) were beautifully detailed.
And so we arrived here at Beg Leguer yesterday evening. Now off to explore it!
Love to all.

1 comment:

  1. Still keeping tabs on your progress and Google Maps certainly has some great pictures of the locations you mention - gives an even better feel of your journey. No particular news from home - except we seem to be getting the wind and rain with occasional sunny periods.
    Enjoy the rest of your holiday and safe trip home - see you soon.
    Chris and Anne

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